Magical Bagan

Alas, I did not factor in arriving two hours early. So at 3am (after a few meal stops – a dinner stop at 8pm and an inexplicable tea stop at 2am) we arrive in Bagan. It was freezing. The locals on the bus all nodded an smiled and said, yes, Bagan, we very early, when I looked at them bleary eyed and dumbfounded.

My German friend on the bus, and I were offered a ride to a hotel by a local. Sounded like a great idea since it was freezing cold, pitch black, 3am and we had no idea where to go. So he bundles us off into his, wait for it… horse and cart. Yes, really. I don’t think I was completely awake – everything was a bit surreal at this point.

The first hotel was full, the second was okay but we thought we’d look at another. We tried several and they were all full so by 4am I pleaded that we just take the available room, at least for now.

Bagan is a truly magical and mystical place. It is a land of over 4,000 temples and stupas build by the kings of Bagan. The earliest temples date back to the eleventh century with Bagan’s golden era lasting roughly 200 years until the Mongolian warlord, Kublai Khan, came and took over the joint. The area of Bagan is roughly 42km square and there are four ways to get around, hire a driver (in a car), hire a horse and cart, hire a trishaw, or hire a bike. I chose a bike.

Despite my lack of sleep I managed to fit in a full day of cycling and sightseeing. Bagan is the sort of place that makes to want to fit in just one more temple. And, of course, you need to be at Shwesandaw Paya at sunset for the amazing view and light.

At one temple, Bupa, which is a golden stupa by the Irrawaddy river, I was approached, or rather ordered, by a group of locals to pose in photographs with several of them. Then as I sat for a little while to take some pictures, a small boy, I would say about three years old, came over to see what the story is with my camera. He then became creative director. I think he thought I was a bit stupid because I couldn’t respond to his questions. He has yet to learn that people with blonde hair generally don’t speak Burmese. He started showing me his whistle toys and giving me a turn. In the end, his family suggested he give me one as a gift – very sweet.

Afterwards I wandered down to the riverside to get some lunch. It was all locals down there doing local things and frying all sorts of food. Mainly different vegetables in some kind of batter. I tried a few which were quite interesting. But again, I think I was of more interest because at my table I was joined by ten kids and a few adults. Everyone mainly stared at me and watched me eat but one of the older kids who spoke some English chatted to me for a while.

In the afternoon I cycled around visiting more temples, got a flat tyre, got it fixed, was followed by several locals. One of them, Jojo, decided he should be my boyfriend and he could call me and email me. It took a while but I finally convinced him that age difference alone was a problem (he was 20) let alone the logistics of carrying out such a “relationship”. He finally left me to it but asked me to consider it overnight. (Yes I’m laughing as I write this.)

I finally made it to Shwesandaw Paya for the stunning sunset before cycling my sore and weary bones back to Nyuang U for a shower and dinner with my German friend.

My fourth full day in Burma and I still haven’t seen a cloud since I arrived…

Figuring if I gave it a good crack today, I could see a fairly good whack of Bagan and be on my way to Mandalay tomorrow. Another eight hours cycling around on either bumpy, dusty or sandy roads but the rewards were there.

While there are a number of foreigners around, I was overwhelmed by how many of the locals visit these temples and worship. They are not merely architectural relics. Particularly the ones further afield. At one temple, as I walked up the stairs, a group of locals walked around from the side and all just stopped and stared as I approached. I heard a few gasps and murmurs, figuring not many foreigners make it to this one.

The bike didn’t have the best day today. The steering column came loose at some point so I had to walk the bike a few kilometres to Myinkaba village where I found a repair guy. And, as luck would have it, Jojo happened to be standing right next to it with a big grin on his face. He helped me get the bike sorted then took me through the village which is where he lives. This village is famed for the lacquerware, which is exquisite. We visited some of the people working and they showed me the process – fantastic to see. I bought a lovely bowl then we headed off for more temples. I had to break it to Jojo that I had considered his offer and it just wasn’t going to work. He wasn’t so happy so we parted ways.

I visited a bunch of temples in the afternoon, mainly the far flung ones which involved riding through soft sand tracks. Let me tell you, that is very difficult. Afterwards I headed back to Nyaung U to see the market which was pretty much shutting down but it did give me a chance to get another flat tyre on the bike and walk it home for the exercise.