Lago de Atitlan

Well things have really slowed down since I got to Guatemala and I’ve spent the past week and a half at Lake Atitlan – six nights in San Pedro La Laguna and four nights at San Marcos La Laguna.

The lake itself is possibly the most beautiful in the world. At an altitude of almost 1,600 metres, the lake was formed thousands of years ago in the crater of a huge volcano. Today it is 10 miles across and surrounded by volcanoes – truly a stunning and peaceful place. The area is sparsely populated with the lake ringed by a dozen or so small villages.

Lake Atitlan has attracted tourists and hippie travellers for decades and many, after travelling for years, have decided to call this place home. There is a strong gringo presence in some of the towns, particularly Panajachel, San Pedro and San Marcos. I was only in Panajachel for 10 minutes to get off the bus and on the boat and I had some old hippie on his pushbike stop to try to get me to buy weed – as if my life would not go on without it.

San Pedro is one of the larger villages with a population of about 13,000. Not as touristy as Panajachel but still a strong gringo presence, particularly in the lower part near the lake. San Pedro offers loads of restaurants, bars and places to hang out but unless you are interested in hiking up volcanoes or kayaking, then yoga and hanging out in the thermal baths and cafes are really the best things to do here.

One day last week, I’m pleased to say, my services were required as a translator – imagine that! I was in the tour office booking a bus to the Chichicastenango markets for the following day when some gringos came in to try and rent a kayak. Things weren’t progressing between the lady and the gringos – they were all very confused - so she asked me to stay and translate. I walked home afterwards with a spring in my step! (Pero mi espanol es todavia muy malo.)

San Marcos is true hippie crystal healing land. It is just across from San Pedro but has a totally different energy. There are loads of Jesus-boys with Thai fisherman pants on and one of the things to do here is stay at a place called Los Piramides for a month or more and do courses in massage, reiki, cosmic therapy, astral travelling or any number of out-there therapies. Personally, I’m here for just a bit of yoga and chilling out.

It is rainy season so most days we get a huge downpour in the afternoon and through the night which does restrict activities. In San Marcos the paths in the village are simply dirt tracks that become slippery and full of puddles and aren’t much fun to negotiate in the dark with pouring rain.