Which Delhi?

Delhi is actually a bunch of cities that has morphed into one big city. Populated since the 6th century BC, it has seen Mughal emperors in Old Delhi and when the Brits took over, they set up a new city south of that called New Delhi which is the current capital. Practically speaking though it is all one big huge city with loads of people.

New Delhi is where we are staying, right by Lodhi Gardens. South or New Delhi is well planned with wide tree lined streets, embassies, hotels and pretty much where the well-heeled in Delhi reside.

Up in Old Delhi, things are quite chaotic. It is a riot of colour, sounds and smells with centuries old buildings, narrow laneways and bundles of cables providing electricity to all of the residences. Turning a few corners off a main road can open up a whole new world, different markets and streets specialising in wedding sarees or paranthes. You just never know what you're going to find. And of course, there are crowds and crowds of people, particularly on a Saturday.

We had one of current volunteers take us on a bit of a tour around Old Delhi today which included rickshaw rides down narrow laneways, lots of food, a Jain temple, a mosque and of course the spice market. I can't think of anywhere else in the world where you would find so many chillies all in one spot. It is impossible to walk through and not sniffle and sneeze and cough. Even the men who work there have their nose and mouth covered.